Installing your water heater
The installation of a water heater depends on the selected system. The solar and thermodynamic models are complex and require the intervention of a qualified professional. By contrast, installing a conventional electric water heater is within your reach… Provided that you possess some experience in plumbing and electricity.
The closer the water heater will be to the drain points (bathroom, kitchen, laundry room), the more efficient the installation will be: better comfort, water immediately hot, savings, less water used before it reaches the temperature needed. There are appliances that can be installed horizontally or vertically (wall mounted or floor standing) to facilitate the insertion in a closet, if possible ventilated. Important reminder: leave at least 50 centimeters of free space around the equipment to ease the installation and the maintenance. Please note that if the installation of an electric water heater is done in a wet room (bathroom...), it is mandatory to comply with the applicable specific standards.
Electric appliances' protection level against splashing water is defined by their IP index which defines the safe installation areas for electric appliances when close to water draining points.
Atlantic appliances have a high IP index up to IP 24 and can be installed in areas 2 or 3 of your bathroom depending on country regulation.
Atlantic products IP index guarantees safe operation.
Essential, the pressure relief valve protects the water heater against possible overpressure. Directly connected to the water heater (no shut-off valve nor pressure reducer), it balances out the pressure inside the appliance. To guarantee long-lasting operation, choose a stainless steel one resistant to water hardness. In case of pressure above 5 bars, a pressure reducer is highly recommended. It is to be installed on the cold water inlet, before the pressure relief valve.
Mandatory if you have plastic pipelines (PEX), for any major renovation or new installation. As any thermostatic valve, a temperature limiter mixes the hot water from the tank and the cold water from the distribution system to avoid burns at the outlet. The temperature is limited to a maximum of 55 °C.
- Attach the dielectric connection: It comes generally with the water heater. It removes galvanic torque (leading to corrosion), protects electrical and electronic appliances, isolates from stray currents. It must be attached to the hot water outlet (identified by a red color). Do not forget the gaskets.
- Seal with oakum, joint sealant or even Teflon the threading from the cold water inlet (identified by a blue color). Then, screw onto it the pressure relief valve.
- Connect the drain valve from the pressure relief valve to the wastewater drain.
- Connect with dedicated hoses the hot water outlet and the cold water inlet via the pressure relief valve.
For the electrical connections of the water heater, take a dedicated circuit using a solid copper cable (2.5mm² minimum). The protection consists of a 16A circuit breaker and a 30mA differential circuit breaker. For the installation of the appliance, follow the manufacturer's technical diagram and safety precautions. Do not forget the day/night switch connection if your appliance is fitted with one. Prior to close the cover of your water heater, check the solidity of the electrical connections one last time.
A simple procedure: slightly open a hot water tap, then, the water heater inlet to fill up the tank. The purpose of this operation is to remove the air inside the water tank. Once the water flows regularly, turn off the tap and wait for the water tank to be fully filled. Switch on the power for the first heating. If any, deactivate the day/night switch. The first heating takes, depending on the models, 1h30 to 8 hours. During that time, check the pressure relief valve. It must be dripping through the drain. After the first heating, check the tightness of the connections and flange. Re-tighten if necessary.